2026.06.27
哲学の道の入口にもごく近く、南に徒歩5分程で南禅寺にも行ける、京都東山の美しい場所に位置する永観堂。
3,000本のもみじが境内に広がり『もみじの永観堂』と呼ばれ、秋の紅葉の季節に大人気です。夜間ライトアップもされる観光のピークは秋ですが、ゆったりと楽しめる時期があります。おススメなのは青もみじの季節です。東山の麓に広がっているのですが拝観券を購入して中門をくぐり目の前に広がる東山や砂利の境内を見ながら「なんて広いの！」と思ったのでした。
沢山の魅力が詰まったお寺ですが、ユニークで一番の見どころは、『見返り阿弥陀』ではないかと思います。阿弥陀堂に入り正面を見ると、体は正面を向いていますが左手に顔を向けている右顔姿の阿弥陀如来立像があります。実に珍しい横顔の姿に目が釘付けになりました。右手にまわりこみ、お顔を正面から拝見すると、優しく表情豊かで、柔らかい空気に包まれた様なふんわりと優しい気持ちになりました。
途中には水琴窟があり、水が滴る澄んだ音を聞きながら左手に向かうと、山の急な斜面に沿うように建てられたとても珍しい階段があります。臥龍廊という名前で、龍が体をうねらせているように見えることから名付けられたそうです。ゆったりとカーブを描く階段はくぎを使わずに建てられています。16世紀の大工さん達の技術力に感心するばかり。この様な建造物があるお寺は初めて見ました。
その後青もみじのトンネルをくぐり抜けて多宝塔へと140段の階段を上がりました。ちょっとしたハイキングの様で、スニーカーで良かった、と思いながら少し息を切らして登り切り、京都市の街を眺めました。常に風に吹かれる木々のざわめきと、いくつもの種類の鳥の声が聞こえるとても気持ちの良い時間でした。
方丈池には、沢山の鯉が泳いでおり、アオサギもゆっくりと散歩をしていました。のどかな雰囲気を楽しめます。
大混雑の秋の紅葉シーズンと蒸し暑い夏を避けて、今の時期に永観堂の青もみじを楽しんでみませんか？
Eikando Temple is located in a beautiful spot in Kyoto’s Higashiyama district, very close to the entrance of the Philosopher’s Path and just a 5-minute walk south of Nanzen-ji Temple.
With 3,000 maple trees spreading across its grounds, it is known as “Eikando: The Temple of Maple Leaves” and is extremely popular during the autumn foliage season. Although autumn is the peak tourist season—when the grounds are illuminated at night—there are times when you can enjoy the temple at a more leisurely pace. I highly recommend visiting during the season of green maple leaves. It stretches out at the foot of Mount Higashiyama, and after purchasing an admission ticket and passing through the inner gate, I looked out at Mount Higashiyama and the gravel-covered grounds spreading out before me and thought, “It’s so vast!”
This temple has many attractions, but I think the most unique and noteworthy feature is the Buddha statue known as the “Looking-Back Amida”. Upon entering the Amida Hall and looking straight ahead, you’ll see a standing statue of Amida Buddha—the body facing forward, but the face turned to the left. I was completely captivated by this truly rare profile view. As I walked around to the right side to view the face from the front, I was struck by the gentle, expressive features, and I felt a soft, gentle warmth wash over me, as if I were enveloped in a gentle atmosphere.
Along the way, there is a suikinkutsu (underground echo chamber). As you head left while listening to the clear sound of dripping water, you’ll come across a very unusual staircase built to follow the steep slope of the mountain. It’s called the Garyū-rō, a name said to derive from the fact that it resembles a dragon winding its body. The staircase, which curves gently, was built without a single nail. I can’t help but marvel at the craftsmanship of the 16th-century carpenters. This is the first time I’ve seen a temple with a structure like this.
After that, I passed through a tunnel of green maple leaves and climbed the 140 steps leading up to the Tahō-tō pagoda. It felt a bit like a short hike, and as I reached the top, slightly out of breath but glad I’d worn sneakers, I looked out over the city of Kyoto. It was a truly pleasant moment, with the rustling of the trees constantly swaying in the breeze and the songs of many different kinds of birds.
In the Hōjō Pond, many koi-fish were swimming, and a gray heron was strolling leisurely. I could enjoy the peaceful atmosphere.
Why not avoid the crowded peak autumn foliage season and the sweltering summer heat, and enjoy the green maple leaves at Eikando Temple right now?
Mikko
