2023.10.19
大徳寺は京都市北区紫野にある臨済宗大徳寺派の大本山ですが
その敷地には22の塔頭があり、それぞれに見どころがあり、
建造物・庭園・障壁画・茶道具・中国伝来の書画など、多くの文化財が残されています。
非公開の塔頭が多い中、瑞峯院は常時公開されています。
秋晴れの気持ちの良い先日、晩年にキリシタンとなった九州豊後の大名・大友宗麟が、
自らの菩提寺として創建した瑞峯院で、ひっそりとした時間帯に石庭を眺めながら静かに過ごしてみました。
入るとすぐに枯山水庭園の南庭「独座庭」があります。
禅の石庭は、ただ身を置くだけで日常のあれこれを忘れ、心がシンプルになっていく感じがします。
他の石庭よりも、白砂の凹凸の立体感が大きくダイナミックな荒波の雰囲気が出ています。
縁先にゆったりと座り目を閉じると…
近くの木の葉っぱが風で揺れるサラサラした音、遠くの木が揺れるザザーっという音、
廊下の木を踏みしめる静かな足音、何種類もの虫の声、
外国人のパパがお子さんたちに庭の説明をするひそひそ声、とても穏やかな音だけが耳に届きます。
穏やかな秋空、蝶々が舞い、まさに平和な瞬間を味わうことができました。
北庭「閑眠庭」は創建の大友宗麟は晩年キリスト教を保護し、キリシタン大名と呼ばれたことから、
七つの石を十字架の形に配置をして隠れたモチーフとして作庭されました。
京都の歴史あるお寺とキリシタンという言葉はなかなか結び付きません。
実際に十字架型に配置された石を見てもピンとこないというのが正直な感想でした。
隠れた信仰ですからそれもそうかもしれませんね。
大覚寺の敷地はとても広く次の目的地今宮神社に行く為に、敷地を出るのに随分歩いた気がします。
途中立派な竹林があり、さっき瑞峯院で聞こえた“遠くの木が揺れるザザーっという音”は
この竹藪だったのかと答え合わせができました。
そこは高桐院という塔頭ですが、現在修復作業中で拝観は出来ない様です。
大徳寺は何度行っても楽しめそうです。
次はどちらの塔頭を参拝するか楽しみが増えました。
Daitokuji Temple is the head temple of the Daitokuji faculty of the Rinzai Sect.
The temple has 22 pagodas, each of which has its own attractions, and many cultural assets remain,
including buildings, gardens, paintings on the walls, tea ceremony utensils,
and calligraphy and paintings from the Chinese tradition.
While many of the pagodas are closed to the public, Zuiho-in is always open to the public.
The other day, when the weather was pleasant and clear in autumn, I spent a quiet time at Zuiho-in,
which was built by Otomo Sorin, a feudal lord in Bungo, Kyushu area, who became a Christian in his later years,
as his family temple, while admiring the stone garden during a quiet time of day.
As soon as I entered, I saw the south garden, which is a dry landscape garden. In this Zen stone garden,
I felt as if I could forget all the things of daily life and simplify my mind just by sitting in the garden.
The white sand has a larger three-dimensional effect of unevenness than other stone gardens,
creating a dynamic atmosphere of rough seas.
Sitting comfortably at the edge of temple wooden corridor and closing my eyes…
The sound of leaves rustling in the wind, the quiet footsteps of trees in the hallway,
the sounds of several kinds of insects, the sound of distant trees swaying,
the whispering of a foreign father explaining the garden to his children..,
Only the most peaceful sounds reached my ears.
The peaceful autumn sky, butterflies dancing in the air, I was able to appreciate a truly peaceful moment.
The north garden was created as a hidden motif with seven stones arranged in the shape of a cross,
as Otomo Sorin, the founder of the temple, protected Christianity in his later years
and was called a Christian daimyo (feudal lord).
It is difficult to associate the word “Christian” with a historic temple in Kyoto.
In fact, when I saw the stones arranged in the shape of a cross, I honestly felt that it did not ring a bell.
That may be because it is a hidden faith.
The premise of Daikakuji Temple is very large, and I think I walked a long way before leaving the premise.
On the way to the next destination, there was a magnificent bamboo grove, and I was able to find an answer
that “the sound of distant trees swaying” I heard at Zuiho-in was this bamboo grove.
The pagoda is called Kouto-in, but it is currently undergoing restoration work and is not open to the public.
Daitokuji Temple is always fun to visit. I am looking forward to seeing which temple I will visit next.
Mikko
